By Will Jelley

When Napoleon Bonaparte visited Antwerp in 1803, he didn’t mince his words, calling the city ‘‘the most backward provincial nest I have ever seen’’.

The story goes that he slept on this thought overnight and the next day – with the invasion of England at the back of his mind – ordered docks to be built.

To him the Scheldt, on the banks of which the city stands, looked like a gun barrel aiming at his biggest enemy – London.

Today’s visitors to Antwerp, the second largest city in Belgium, will discover that it is modern, vibrant and a far cry from old Napoleon’s description.

The busy port, which the French emperor helped to create, still plays an important role in the economic life of the place. But nowadays, with the lure of Rubens and diamonds, great architecture, fantastic shopping, atmospheric bars, and fine wining and dining, it’s simply a great place to visit.

It has beautiful buildings, museums and galleries, and shops selling exquisite, hand-made chocolates to tempt the most hardened of dieters.

But Antwerp has another jewel in its crown – the diamond industry. More than 80% of the world’s production of rough and industrial diamonds pass through the city, and a staggering 50% of all polished stones are traded here.

It’s therefore no wonder that you will also find here the most renowned, specialised diamond cutters and polishers in the world.

There are even special packages available for couples looking for that perfect ring – with hotel accommodation thrown in according to how much your chosen little rock will set you back.

Art aficionados may prefer to take in the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. Situated in the heart of the trendy southern part of Antwerp, this stately 19th century building houses some magnificent works of art – not least an impressive collection of baroque art works by Rubens and his contemporaries.

The impressive Cathedral of Our Lady dominates the Antwerp skyline and boasts yet more breathtaking paintings by Rubens, including Raising of the Cross and Descent from the Cross.

If all that culture leaves you craving some retail therapy, you’ll find the city is blessed with a rich and diverse range of stores. Even better yet, the shopping zones are contained in the cultural and historic sections of the city.

One of the many titles that Antwerp proudly used in the 16th century was ’de triomfelycke coopstad’ – or the renowned city for shopping – and today this still rings true.

The majestic Meir is said to be the busiest shopping street in Belgium, attracting 240,000 visitors a week.

Lovers of bric-a-brac, old books and prints can go treasure-hunting in the shops along Minderbroedersrui, Hoogstraat and Kloosterstraat – one long street with a huge concentration of stores selling collectibles.

On Sunday mornings the stallholders of the famous Vogelenmarkt (bird market) set up shop. This is a spectacle that you really shouldn’t miss.

With a wealth of things to see and do – and plenty of bars and restaurants to visit when you want to do nothing at all – Antwerp is an ideal location for a weekend break.

These days, Napoleon would eat his words. Maybe he’d have even taken Josephine with his eye on a diamond ring...

Info

P&O Ferries runs daily overnight Hull-Zeebrugge crossings from £133 each way for a car and two passengers sharing an en suite cabin. Antwerp is approximately one hour’s drive from Zeebrugge.

Antwerp has a wide range of accommodation, with double rooms and B&B in budget hotels from around £40. Boutique hotels, like Hotel Julien, a converted townhouse, start at £120, B&B. Double rooms at The Plaza Hotel, in the Diamond District by City Park, start around £90.

For information about visiting Antwerp, contact Tourism Flanders on 0207 7307 7738

www.visitflanders.co.uk