By Mike Polanyk

It’s the inaugural flight on Monarch Airlines’ new route from Birmingham to Lanarka and

I’m feeling a mite subdued, despite the complimentary Champagne. I’ve come with my usual 50 quid’s worth of the local currency, but gone are the days when that would buy me 70 or 80 Euros.

Now, it’s more or less like for like. I’ll use my card, of course, but those 50-odd Euros in my wallet are a sharp reminder of the fluctuating financial fortunes of the British holidaymaker abroad.

Still, after a four-and-a-half-hour flight, we found Cyprus hot and welcoming, and our party were determined to enjoy the trip, whatever the exchange rate.

And this Mediterranean island does make enjoyment easy. Wonderful food, beautiful shorelines with pristine beaches, sleepy villages and copious quantities of spirit-reviving sunlight: it’s not hard to see why tourists arrive here in their droves.

We were based in Lanarka, but the first full day saw us travel to Kelokedara village for a taste of traditional Cypriot culture.

That included the dubious honour of donkey trekking through the pretty countryside, which was green and luscious after the recent rain. (That sunlight – it’s not guaranteed)

We went by Jeep to an abandoned 14th century monastery, Panayia tou Sindi, which was sublime.

Rather less sublime was a barbecue back at the donkey farm, accompanied by Cypriot music and dancing which bordered on riotous. Imagine a DJ segueing from Ralph Vaughan Williams to Motörhead and you’ll get the idea.

The experience is very much for parties, but if you’re after a knees-up, it’s well worth a visit.

I, though, was in the mood for history and Cyprus is just the place for it. I spent a happy couple of days visiting spectacular mosaics and beautiful churches, seeing some wonderful carvings along the way.

Our group stopped off at Kourion, which stands perched dramatically on a sheer bluff overlooking the sea. It’s easily one of Europe’s most spectacular archaeological sites.

There is a wonderful amphitheatre, a basilica and some exhilarating views – admission was about 10 euros, which secured a good half-day out.

You can’t visit Cyprus and not visit Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock) – where legend has it that Aphrodite, ancient patron goddess of Cyprus, emerged from the sea.

The crystal-clear waters were like glass the day we visited. The inevitable coffee shop nearby is both cheap and cheerful and offers a blessed bit of shade, should you begin to wilt.

I can’t speak for the headline-hungry resort of Agia Napa, as I’d rather share a donkey ride to hell with Grant Bovey than set foot there, but Paphos has changed for the better.

The chief tourist attraction of the south has been cleaned up, and the harbour is busy without being maddening. It’s here where you’ll find the ancient Roman mosaics of Paphos.

You can spend best part of a day there, and four euros – it’s a real bargain.

Talking of which, it’s time to check my wallet. Yup: still looking quite healthy. In Pathos, most English and basic Cypriot bars charge one-and-a-half euros for a pint. Back in Limassol, the deals weren’t so good.

When it came to eating out, the food – without exception – was delicious.

What you pay is another matter. The celebrated meze at 7 St Georges, Paphos is 25 Euros but that includes unlimited wine and the food is splendid.

Shop around, that’s my advice. It might not be breathtakingly original, but it’s advisable. At Karatello restaurant near the old castle in Limassol, we paid much the same as at Seven St Georges, but drinks weren’t included.

Back on the plane, I was redder of face and lighter of pocket, but deeply content.

Info

Mike Polanyk stayed at the excellent five star Apollonia Beach Hotel, Limassol, Cyprus.

Ring 00357 253 23351 or see www.louishotels.com

For more information on Cyprus, see www.visitcyprus.com

Low fares airline Monarch offers year round flights to Larnaca from  Birmingham International with fares, including taxes, starting from £78.99 one way (£155.50 return)

Visit www.monarch.co.uk

Still stuck on that donkey farm barbecue business? Find out more at www.argonaftis.com