Now for something completely different... Sian Brewis breaks the habit of a lifetime and doesn’t have the chicken jalfrezi.

Everyone has one. Their 'go-to' dish, the one they would order if they were on death row and could only eat one more meal before they pop their clogs. Mine would be chicken jalfrezi. I don't even have to say what I want from the takeaway any more as the chap just reads off by rote, "chicken jalfrezi… boiled rice… naan," in a way which makes me feel a) embarrassed b) like I order takeaways far too often and c) fat. (See also b).

But a change is as good as a rest, they say. And when we visited 4550 Miles From Delhi, in London Road, Leicester, I decided it was time to have – gasp! – something different.

Steadying my nerves with a pint of Cobra I took a deep breath and opened the menu.

The restaurant has clearly had some money spent on it, from the smart gallery dining area, to the cosy, yet stylish cushioned seating on the upper floor.

The walls are brightly coloured and the open kitchen design means you can watch the chefs doing their stuff with accompanying "whooshes" of flame and juggling of pans, like a mini theatre.

Arriving early on a Friday night, we had no trouble getting a table.

As soon as we sat down, the waiter arrived to take our drinks orders and offer poppadoms (£2.50). They promptly arrived, crunchy and still hot. Dips included a delicious spiky onion relish.

We started with a Tandoori mixed sizzler for two (£13.95) which turned up trumps, with a selection of chicken hariyali – its skin almost black and covered with coriander and mint – which was meltingly tender.

Richard preferred the gilafi seekh kebab, while you could really taste the ginger in the lasooni chicken.

I've never had salmon tikka before and it worked surprisingly well, the firm flesh of the fish taking on the tandoori flavour well. Everything was served on a sizzling plate with fried onions and vegetables and, to be honest, after eating it all we felt like we were pretty much full. They don't stint on the portions here.

It didn't seem but a couple of minutes between our plates being cleared and the main courses arriving.

We were still feeling stuffed from the starter and wanted to take our time, so it seemed a bit on the sharpish side.

Richard had ordered Keema Pea Peshwari (£7.95) a dish of minced lamb, peas and spices while I went for kaalimirch methiwala murgh (£10.95) from the specials board.

Yes, it was chicken, but this time in a fenugreek sauce. And it had a hotter chilli rating printed by it than the jalfrezi, too. The chicken was, again, beautifully cooked, but it was the sauce that was a real triumph.

It tasted fresh, spicy and vibrant, but I was expecting it to be hotter. The accompanying tarkha dhal side dish (£4.95) which we shared was generously flavoured with coriander and enough garlic to give it a kick without overpowering the overall flavour.

Richard's dish was like a curried shepherd's pie without the potato – a naan expertly balancing crispy and fluffy filled the void. Like shepherd's pie it was good, tasty comfort food, if not particularly exciting. A fraction less salt would have made it even better.

The food is slightly more expensive here than in some other curry houses, but then it seems to be aimed at the top end of the market. The service was attentive, friendly and helpful throughout.

The only quibble I have is a personal one: the service charge. I don't like mandatory tipping, and here it saw our bill rise from £58 to £64, including £13 worth of drinks. Yes, I would probably have tipped, but it would be nice to have the option. The only quibble Richard had was the cost of beers, at £4.95 for a bottle of Cobra.

Info

4550 Miles From Delhi

65 to 69 London Road, Leicester, LE2 0PE

Phone: 01162 471 471