By Simon Ward

As far as city bars go, Fat Cat is right up there with the best. A little on the pricey side, perhaps, but no more so than you would expect from a fashionably fitted out purveyor of exotic cocktails.

However, it had never really occurred to me before to go there for food.

So, it was with an open mind, not to mention an empty stomach, that I gave it a try.

Upon sitting down at our table, two things struck me. Firstly, the waiting staff are far more friendly and helpful than you might be inclined to expect from a bar which – deservedly or not – has cultivated something of a snobby reputation.

Secondly, there are only really a handful of tables set aside for diners, which seemed to confirm my initial suspicion that food is something of a sideline for Fat Cat.

We order bread and olives (£2.50) to share as an appetiser ahead of the main course.

It’s brought out swiftly and the portion size does not disappoint.

There is only one variety of bread, however, and the fact that the accompanying olive oil and vinegar come ready mixed reinforces the general feeling that while Fat Cat may be in the premier league of city nightspots, in culinary terms, it’s languishing in the lower divisions of pub food.

The main courses on the menu are predominantly made up of burgers – 10 varieties, no less – and hot sandwiches. Feeling famished, I opted for the rather salubrious sounding peppered fillet steak medallions – the nearest thing on the menu to steak and chips.

At £13.95 it was also the most expensive.

While it was far from being unenjoyable, I would argue that for the money, you would be right to expect better.

The steak was cooked medium rare, just as I asked for, but some of the cuts were slightly sinewy.

The flat mushroom and onion rings, which were described as home-made on the menu, were both a bit dry and overcooked, too.

However, the chunky chips that accompanied it really were a treat, which leads me to suspect that if I’d taken the menu’s hint and opted for a burger I may have come away a happier customer.

My friend, Claire, had the Spanish-style swordfish (£10.95) which was by all accounts a more agreeable dish.

It was served up with rice mixed with black olives and Spanish Chorizo sausage and topped with a red pepper dressing.

Despite both being full to bursting we couldn’t resist the temptation of sharing a slice of the berry and mascarpone flavoured cheesecake of the day (£4.45).

It was a good decision as it proved to be the highlight of what was an otherwise fairly unremarkable meal.

Including two rounds of drinks our bill came to £43.35.

In short, Fat Cat is a fine bar that does a decent range of lunchtime snacks, and the service is spot-on.

But if you are looking for anything more adventurous than a burger for an evening meal, it comes up a little short.

Info

Fat Cat Café Bar, Belvoir Street, Leicester

Phone 0116 2553610

Rating 3/5