Is it a pub? Is it a restaurant? No, the newly-opened Highcross Almanack is a "gastropub". Peering through the large glass windows of the latest eaterie to open its doors at Highcross Leicester, I feel like I'm looking into a posher version of Wetherspoons.

Once inside we're greeted by a friendly waitress who shows us to a table, hands us menus and tells us about the soup and roast of the day. Now I feel like I'm in a restaurant.

It's a large airy space with wooden tables, funky lights, modern fittings and retro album covers adorning the walls.

It has the feel and atmosphere of a trendy city bar but the menu of a country pub – all hearty English fare.

However, with sausage and mash setting you back £10, the pricing is more like being in a restaurant.

Half the interior is set out like a restaurant, with the other half more like a bar, with sofas or high tables.

For starters, I opted for the soup of the day – spicy tomato.

It was full of flavour, and had a real homemade feel. But it was a bit too hot. My boyfriend, Dan, chose the cheese fondue, and when the delicately-sized dish arrived, I'll admit I was slightly jealous. He had a selection of crudités and bread to dunk.

Again, when my main course arrived it was very hot. But I can't really complain.

My steak and ale pie looked and smelled so good I couldn't wait for it to cool down before tasting it.

It came with winter vegetables, rather than the normal marrowfat peas option. I'm not sure how they'd run out of peas on the second day of opening but apparently they had.

The steak was tender in a rich sauce, with a dumpling type topping that was a perfect consistency. Dan had the roast of the day – a leg of lamb. He'd given the dish his seal of approval after just one mouthful of potato.

As he continued, it didn't drop in quality, with perfectly cooked lamb and some delicious gravy.

We thought we were full until the waitress handed out the pudding menu and uttered the magic words: "The cheese cake of the day is Baileys flavour." Somehow, I found a little bit of extra space for the beautifully light and fluffy desert.

With all that food, a heavenly French coffee and a couple of pints of beer each, the bill came to £54.

The food is not cheap, certainly not pub prices. But I don't think I've ever eaten anything of that quality in a pub.

With the space and buzzing atmosphere it feels more like a bar than a restaurant. I think that might put off some people who want a good three-course meal in a restaurant environment. I'm not sure if drinkers will be rushing to a new pub on the edge of a shopping centre where a pint sets you back £3.20.

But with food that is tasty, a welcoming atmosphere and prompt service, what really matters is it's a very good place to

Info

Highcross Almanack, Bathhouse Lane, Highcross, Leicester. Phone 0116 2160 705.