by Tom Mack

Like many other pubs across the county, the Poacher's Bistro is a snug little hostelry that has built a big extension and started selling expensive grub. So many of these places exist now that it's getting hard not to be a bit suspicious.

My fear is it's too easy to open one of these gastro pubs, charge £18 for a bowl of beef with no veg, and people will be afraid to say it's a ridiculous waste of money.

So, in a skeptical state of mind, I was shown into the dimly-lit dining room built on the back of the quaint pub in Church Street, Thurlaston.

I had my first look at the menu online and I have to admit it got me salivating.

And sitting in the restaurant with my wife, Polly, in the flickering light of a tiny candle, it felt like a very pleasant place to dine. But it wasn't going to be a cheap experience.

I ordered a lager and Polly had a glass of red wine and we also shared a huge bowl of oily olives (£3.50) that were served with tiny bits of rosemary that had a way of embedding themselves in the roofs of our mouths.

There was no bread unless you paid for it, so by the end of the bowl we both felt rather greasy.

The chicken parfait (£5.50) was my choice for a starter and with the onion marmalade and toasted brioche it was a delicious combination. Although, as is usually the case, there wasn't enough toast.

Polly had a plate of smoked salmon, which cost £4.95. It was served with capers and horseradish, which dominated the flavour, but she said the salad it came with was brilliant.

It was a long wait for our main courses and our waiter offered more drinks. As I had to drive home I made do with tap water, while Polly ordered another wine. But this time they brought over a vast glass of red that probably contained half a bottle and cost £5.75 – more than either of the starters.

Main course dishes at the Poacher's Bistro range in price from £9.95 for an aubergine wrap to steaks costing more than £22. We tried to aim halfway.

Polly had monkfish tails on cous cous, which cost £16.50 and I had a plate of lamb for £17.95.

The lamb was juicy, rare and tender with a wonderful honey and herb skin. It was served on bubble and squeak and the dish easily scored top marks.

The monkfish tails, which were wrapped in pancetta, were good, but were upstaged by the vegetable cous cous and red pepper sauce.

In terms of value, the total bill of £63.90 seemed pretty large, but if that seems like a reasonable price to pay for good food, give it a try.

Info

Poacher’s Bistro, Church Street, Thurlaston

Phone 01455 888 227

Rating 4/5