Blink and you might miss it. I did, and I did, writes Adrian Troughton. A distinct lack of sign-posting had me turning the air of the leafy country lanes of Leicestershire bluer than a rich vein of Stilton.

It was not an auspicious start to the evening but nonetheless we had finally arrived at Northfield Farm.

The furrows, as deep as a ploughed field, started to disappear from my brow as soon as I set foot inside the converted cowshed of a restaurant. Pure rustic charm.

But I needed a drink, and fast. A mouthwatering choice of local beers was on offer. Chambre or chilled. Nice touch.

Owner/maitre d/chief bottlewasher Jan McCourt drifted over to our table, blackboard in hand.

"These are our menus as we have only been open a couple of weeks and have not had any printed," he said.

As I drank in the atmosphere and the excellent Caudle bitter from the Langton Brewery in East Langton (£3.50 bottle) we nibbled on freebie slices of a delicious home-baked ciabatta.

There were three of us and a trio of starters, so we took one each.

The warm rainbow trout (£5.50), smoked in apples from the orchard, was a subtle delight.

The home-made minestrone soup (£4) was, unlike many of its ilk, not a wishy-washy affair but a rugged rumble.

Sumptuous

My rillettes of pork (£5) – strips of sumptuous belly pork served alongside two slabs of home-made rye bread – were simply sensational.

Jan and his smiling blonde assistant were attentive without being intrusive.

The white-washed walls and mish-mash of oddly-matched tables – some with tablecloths, some without – and hotchpotch of chairs conveyed a relaxed, homely feel.

The walls are adorned with artwork by local artists, all for sale, and all to be enjoyed for free. A hare and a fox, both bold in stroke and in luscious oils, peered out all gimlet-eyed, a faint echo of Ted Hughes.

My son chose the farm-reared steak (£18) as fitting celebration for his 13th birthday. His sister followed suit. Both medium rare.

The meat did not disappoint. It was tender and soft. You could almost taste the green, green grass of home.

An accompanying pile of chunky chips – all fat and filling – proved the perfect foil.

My roasted Rutland rainbow trout (£12.50) came from the nearby Eyebrook Reservoir – one that escaped the talons of the ospreys.

The fish came with a delicate Hollandaise sauce, cheery new potatoes, sturdy carrots and a firm dollop of cabbage.

The flesh yielded and melted in the mouth.

Head chef and master baker Matt Jones (ex Gidleigh Park, Bibendum and Qualigno's, no less) was on form. He regularly dragged himself from his hot stove and poked his head round the door and chatted to guests about his efforts.

The desserts were almost beyond reach. Our bellies were full but our eyes were bigger.

We opted for a selection of the lot at a fiver a person.

The oeufs a la neige was weird and wonderful, the creme caramel all soft and sumptuous, the apricot tart firm and fruity and the chocolate brownie sensual enough to make a Scout blush.

It is a delicious slice of foodie heaven on your doorstep.

Book a table. Get directions. Sit. Eat. Drink. Laugh. Enjoy.

Just do it.

Info: Northfield Farm Restaurant, Whissendine Lane, Cold Overton, LE15 7QF. Phone: 01664 474271